Month: April 2021

What are the Ideal Methods of Pattern Drafting for Fashion Design?

A simple definition of pattern-making is altering a piece of cloth for making outfits that suit a person’s body shape. In a way, it is nothing less than the building block of fashion design. Furthermore, pattern drafting is an essential skill needed in the career of fashion designing because without this skill it is not possible to make a perfect garment. This knowledge is also needed in varying degrees by costume designers, fashion designers, sewing business owners, home sewists, and pattern makers. So now, you can understand how pattern drafting in fashion designing is very significant in this industry.

Methods of Pattern Making

Nowadays, there are many methods of pattern making. However, the most perfect and easy way to make patterns is by computer. That is why the demand for pattern making software is very high in the garment making industry. They rely on this computer software for making various patterns with the talent of professional fashion designers. Computerised pattern making is faster, with less chance of errors, yet it is a bit costly. That is why many go for manual pattern drafting.

Manual pattern drafting is done by two main methods, which include Flat pattern drafting method (with block patterns) & the Draping method.

Flat Pattern Drafting

It is the process of making drawing on a pattern paper in accordance with the body measurements and design on a fashion sketch. It is considered to be the most accurate pattern making method amongst fashion designers. The fundamental patterns are referred to as slopers, which has bare minimum ease. Generally, it fits the figure T. the fundamental slopers are then altered to create various types of other complex yet feature-rich flat patterns. Simultaneously, the slopers are managed and altered by adding ease along with other design elements like tucks, fullness, change in design lines, etcetera.

Even though fashion sketches and patterns are flat, but clothes are definitely not. Things that add depth and dimension to the flat patterns are the design elements. Spreading and slashing of the sloper patterns bring more plumpness to the pattern, and then darts are added to offer a 3D effect, and fabric manipulations provide texture to the fabric.

Draping Method

It is called draping the fabric on the dress form, after that pattern is done. Usually, the fabric used in this case is muslin that is pinned directly on to the mannequin, and adjustments are made like darts, tucks, and curves are pinned, and the marking is done with the chalk.

This process helps the designer to clearly check how the fabric drapes and how it will turn out in the end. Therefore, when you want to visualize your design in a 3 dimensional way before making a pattern, then this is the method for you. The draping is nearly transformed into a flat pattern before it is made into the final garment.

For more information regarding pattern drafting, visit Pattern Creations today.

Lesser-Known Facts About Stretch Fundamentals of Pattern Making

To know more about the stretch fundamentals of pattern making, we need to understand the difference between woven and knit fabrics. In that case, it is significant to state that Lycra or spandex can be added to woven and knit garments for adding stretch. However, we will look into both these fabrics in their natural state and later discuss about adding spandex. When you know the fabric’s structure, it becomes easy to understand the reason and how stretch and knit is managed interchangeably, even though many woven fabric are known to have stretch. The point is when you know the fundamentals then you will be able to make the best use of a clothes pattern making software based on your requirements.

Woven fabric is made by weaving or interlacing the threads in conjunction on right angles to each other. Generally, maximum threads in their natural form do not stretch. Imagine pulling the woven fabric on the left and right side, up and down side. Either way, you are pulling the fabric along the length of the thread. There are loops in the structure of the fabric that opens up, allowing the stretching of the fabric. It is how the loops of the knitted yarn are made to allow stretching.

The difference between Stretch woven & Knits

Well, jerseys are usually knits, but in many cases it is not easy to tell it at one go. However, checking the end part of the fabric or the cut edge will provide you with information on whether the fabric is knit or stretch woven. If you check a tartan fabric, you will find at the cut edge that it is frayed, plus the interlaced crosswise and lengthwise threads are coming loose. On the other hand, a velvet fabric has an edge where it curls than frays. It is proof that it is a knit fabric. It should be noted that fabric that stretches on the lengthwise grain is capable of curling on the selvedge.

Ways to check the amount of stretch on a piece of fabric

When you want to test the amount of stretch, fold the fabric first on the grain which you want to test. Make sure to do it on the crosswise grain for Stretch woven, crosswise and/ lengthwise Knits. Also, fold it over if you are stretching some distance away from the edge. First, put two pins in the fabric and then take a tape to measure for marking a particular distance.

Also, fabrics can be divided into three types based on what direction they stretch in and how/where the stretch is derived. There is One way stretch, Two way stretch, and Four way stretch, on which a piece of fabric is categorised. This information is significant when drafting the pattern accordingly because the maximum stretch goes around the body for a dress. To decide the right kind of fabric for a dress, you need to know to have the information when you can use two-way stretch and when you need four way stretch.

For more information regarding drafting, visit pattern creations today.